Monday, 17th August, Grampound Road to Philleigh, 19 miles.
In contrast with yesterday’s walk through Cornwall’s plundered landscape, we embrace the gentle topography of the Roseland Peninsula today, at a more leisurely pace.
Catherine, ever the cautious one, has advised us to take the quiet lane down to Grampound. I wouldn’t take a horse on the main road, she tells me, the traffic uses that stretch as a rat run and it’s fast. Not one to argue (not with Catherine anyway), I heed her advice and add a few more miles to our route today avoiding the lorries and boy racers. Going down this lane I discover the verge is a treasure trove stuffed with all manner of rusting farm machinery in various stages of decay.
Over the A 390 on the other side of Grampound we link into the bridlepath to get back onto my original route and I try out the long reins on Tommy. I try them again when we get through Tregony and heading along the lane running beside the River Fal towards Ruan Lanihorne. A woman in a red car stops a little way up the road to tell me what a nice sight it was to see us doing that.
We stop to say hello to puppy dogs and have a thirst-quenching pint at the pub in Ruan Lanihorne where I share a bag of Mature Cheddar and Spring Onion crisps with Tommy, then on through Treworga.
Early afternoon, the sun is beating down now and its so hot I can hear the ears of wheat in the fields cracking in the heat. Those last few miles to Phileigh are quite challenging because there is no escape from the relentless heat bouncing off the road, so it’s with some relief we walk into the shade of the stable barn at Jim and Shirley’s place to find there is a stable waiting for Tommy with his name on it. Wonderful.
This is a lively livery yard and Jim’s livery people are a friendly bunch. It has a great atmosphere and I am also looked after very well by my new hosts. They tell me they spotted us resting in the shade at Tregony on their way into Truro for a meeting earlier. After an entertaining evening, I sleep like a baby waking to another stunning view, this time over the Roseland towards St. Mawes.